Leave No Trace is essential in rock climbing, helping to protect outdoor crags as the sport grows. Since 2006, rock climbing has boomed, with the number of climbers in the U.S. rising from 6.2 million to nearly 12 million in 2024. While this figure includes both indoor and outdoor climbers, it’s clear that climbing’s popularity is surging with no signs of slowing down.
As more gym climbers transition to outdoor climbing, it’s crucial to follow key guidelines and etiquette to minimize impact. Let’s explore the seven principles of Leave No Trace and how they apply to rock climbing.
Principle #1: Plan Ahead and Prepare
In Colorado, we have regularly closed trails for Raptor nests, and in Wyoming in June routes are closed for respect of the natives most sacred month of ceremonies. Be sure to follow all posted signs! Leave No Trace-Rock Climbing
Check local regulations and ethics regarding the installation and use of fixed protection.
Know the regulations and special concerns for the area where you plan to climb.
Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies.
Schedule your climbing to avoid times of high use.
If you are climbing with a group, communicate your expectations.
Bring the appropriate equipment for the route(s) you intend to climb.
Acquire the necessary technical skills including first aid knowledge.
Principle #2: Travel and Camp on Safe and Durable Surfaces
In locations such as moab, and other desert climates be on the lookout for cryptobiotic soil. This soil looks like little castles, but actually helps prevent sand from blowing around and mitigating sand storms!
Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow.
Always use durable roads and trails to access climbing routes.
When unpacking gear at crags, choose a durable location for your staging and belay areas.
Use existing anchors when available.
Protect water sources by camping at least 200 feet from lakes and streams.
Principle #3: Dispose of Waste Properly
Otherwise know as pack it in, pack it out. If you bring anything in, make sure to bring it back out with you. Other considerations include:
Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your camping and climbing areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, tape, and litter.
Carry out abandoned or forgotten gear and webbing.
Minimize the use of chalk when possible. Keep chalk bags closed when not in use to minimize spills.
Pack out solid human waste using the appropriate method. WAG bags are preferred.
If allowed, deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6-8 inches deep, at least 200 feet from water, camp, and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished.
Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. Use a ziploc bag or foil!
Principle #4: Leave What You Find
The best way to leave what you find is to take pictures and remind others to do the same.
Preserve the past:observe, but do not touch cultural or historic structures and artifacts.
Leave rocks, plants, and other natural objects as you find them.
Avoid developing new routes near archeological or historical sites, or critical wildlife habitat.
Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species.
Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches.
Principle #5: Minimize Campfire Impacts
Colorado has a significant wildfire problem. Making sure you understand the wildfire dangers, and campfire bans wherever you are traveling to is key!
Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the backcountry. Consider using a lightweight stove for cooking and bring a headlamp for light.
Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans, or mound fires.
Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand.
Don’t bring firewood with you. It may be contaminated with tree killing insects or diseases. Instead buy local wood near your destination or gather it upon your arrival.
Burn all wood to coals and ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.
Principle #6: Respect Wildlife
Using the “rule of thumb” closing one eye and holding you thumb an arms length away from you, covering the animal. If you can’t cover the animal, then you are to close!
Learn about seasonal route closures and be prepared to back off a route if you disturb wildlife.
Observe wildlife from a distance. Do not follow or approach wildlife.
Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviors and exposes them to predators and other dangers.
Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely.
If bringing dogs to crags, ensure they are under control or consider leaving them at home.
Avoid wildlife during sensitive times: mating, nesting, raising young or winter.
Principle #7: Be Considerate Of Others
We all have different reasons for recreating outdoors. Be kind, be courteous, and share the space as best as possible.
Respect others and protect the quality of their experience.
Larger groups should try not to monopolize popular climbing routes, especially during times of high use.
Maintain a cooperative spirit by being courteous to other users on the trail and at crags.
Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises unless necessary for communicating with your climbing partners.
Remember that the Leave No Trace principles are guidelines, and are not specific rules. By doing your best to mitigate your impact, has lasting effects on the spaces we play in. Be sure to check out Leave No Trace center for outdoor ethics for more details on Hot Spots in your state!
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